Ankara Castle & Ulus

“Look at the stones of Ankara, / Look at the tears in my eyes…” So begins that familiar folk song. But have you ever wondered why it asks us to look at the city’s stones rather than its vineyards and gardens? Perhaps the answer lies atop the Hisar, the old citadel; for in Ankara stone is not just a building material but a ledger where the centuries are written one over another…