Sarıkamış & Cıbıltepe

“Do not pass by, calling the ground you tread mere earth; know it: / Think of the thousands lying shroudless beneath.” These lines of the İstiklal Marşı, the Turkish national anthem, perhaps echo nowhere as deeply as in the snowy forests of Sarıkamış. But come, let’s first look at the snow itself; for snow is not the same snow everywhere…